• Rv maintenance

    Rv maintenance

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    The Cruise Lite is a great way to introduce your family to the RV lifestyle. Full of great features that are usually only found in RVs at higher prices, the Cruise Lite offers you quality and value.

    Select filters below and then click the Filter Results button to remove non-matching Floorplans and their Specifications. It includes all weights, inclusive of all fluids, cargo, optional equipment and accessories. GAWR Gross Axle Weight Rating — is the maximum permissible weight, including cargo, fluids, optional equipment and accessories that can be safely supported by a combination of all axles.

    The UVW does not include cargo, fresh potable water, additional optional equipment or dealer installed accessories. Available CCC should accommodate fresh potable water 8. Before filling the fresh water tank, empty the black and gray tanks to provide for more cargo capacity. Each Forest River RV is weighed at the manufacturing facility prior to shipping. A label identifying the unloaded vehicle weight of the actual unit and the cargo carrying capacity is applied to every Forest River RV prior to leaving our facilities.

    The load capacity of your unit is designated by weight, not by volume, so you cannot necessarily use all available space when loading your unit. Please refer to the Operator's Manual of your vehicle for further towing information. Limited Time Option.

    Slide Outs? Bunk Beds? Outside Kitchen? Weight No Min lb. Floorplans Print. Cruise Lite Travel Trailers. Specifications Print. Specifications Definitions. Cruise Lite Standard Features. Ready Microwave 6 Gal. Cruise Lite New Standard Features. Cruise Lite Options. Videos Some videos may show features or options not available on all products.

    Contact our service representatives or your local dealer if you have questions about how your specific RV operates. Cruise Lite Best in Class Literature Mail Me A Brochure.

    English French.So many RV tips and hacks require a tool or two! This is our comprehensive list but every RV and camping trip is unique so add and subtract from our list to meet your specific travel needs. This is an auto and RV tool set that can be used for basic repairs and maintenance … and … using a kit is one of the best RV organization ideas. We like using a basic tool kit in an easy-to-carry case that keeps things organized in a limited amount of space. A digital tire gauge quickly provides accurate tire pressure readings which is important for the highest level of safety and gas mileage while traveling.

    Even though a floor jack is heavier and more cumbersome than a typical scissor jack, we think it is worth the weight to carry because it is more stable, easier to use and generally has capacity to handle heavier weights. It is especially helpful when changing a tire on the side of a busy highway; the floor jack makes for a stable, safer and faster event. You want to be especially prepared with RV tools for flat tires if you are doing any free camping in remote areas that have rough dirt roads and poor cell coverage.

    If you get into a situation and you need a little extra help, take advantage of the best camping apps that are totally FREE! It is really helpful to have a roadside assistance kit with the basic things you need after you have safely pulled off the side of the road.

    We like kits because they have the things you need all in one place and are packed for efficiency requiring minimal storage space.

    A voltmeter is an inexpensive yet very valuable item to have in your RV toolbox. A voltmeter allows you to test the condition of your RV batteries before and during your camping trip. A voltmeter can also be used to check the shore power also known as RV electric hookups and RV power outlet box at your campsite destination for proper polarity and volts. If the voltage being supplied is inadequate to meet your AC electrical needs, you could inadvertently drain your RV batteries.

    Having a propane gas meter allows you to monitor the fuel level in the tank without having to actually remove the tank from the RV. This equipment can also limit the flow of propane if it detects a leak … which is a great safety feature.

    Even though most RVs have amazing kitchens, we still prefer to cook our camp stove recipes outdoors. One drawback with using portable camping stoves is the need for small propane cylinders which can run out of fuel before the weekend is over if you are using it enough. That problem is eliminated by using a propane tank refill adapter which easily transfers propane from your large RV propane tank to your small propane cylinders used with your camping stove.

    We also love the eco-friendliness of reusing and refilling the small cylinder rather than disposing of empty cylinders after a single use. We find the propane tank refill adapter easy to use; be sure to follow the manufactures instructions for safe operation. These little gadgets are great camping gifts for guys because they are practical, easy to use, inexpensive and an awesome piece of camping gear he will use over and over again! He considers it to be one of the items at the top of the list of best propane camping gear!Your browser's Javascript functionality is turned off.

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    Automotive Accessories. Back to Generators. Outdoor Camping. Back to Outdoor Camping. Camp Kitchen. Camp Tools. Emergency Preparedness. Trailer Towing.Modern marine toilets require minimal maintenance, but ignore them completely at your own peril. Heads flushed with salt water accumulate scale deposits in the discharge channels and hoses.

    Scale deposits cause a head to get progressively harder to flush, and it is scale on the valves that allows water in the discharge line to leak back into the bowl. Calcium deposits eventually lead to total blockage, a most unpleasant prospect. Avoiding this problem is as easy as running a pint of white vinegar through the head once a month. Move the vinegar through the head slowly, giving the head a single pump every 4 or 5 minutes.

    The mildly acidic vinegar dissolves fresh scale inside the head and hoses. When the vinegar has passed all the way through the system, pump a gallon of fresh water through to flush the lines. The acid won't harm porcelain, plastic, or rubber parts. It does attack metal, but consequential damage takes a long time. The biggest danger is to eyes and skin, so be sure you observe all label precautions.

    Pour two cups of acid into the bowl. It will fizz as it reacts with the calcium deposits on the bowl valve. When the fizzing stops, pump the head — intake closed — just enough to empty the bowl.

    This moves the acid into the pump. After a few minutes pump again to move the acid into the discharge hose. Let it sit a few more minutes before opening the intake and thoroughly flushing the toilet and lines.

    The acid is "used up" as it reacts with the calcium, so heavy scaling may call for more than one treatment. Scale and salt also find their way into the anti-siphon valve in the discharge line. Remove the valve and soak it in warm, soapy water to dissolve deposits that could be holding it shut or open. To keep the pump operating smoothly, follow your monthly vinegar flush with a dose of oil. The best choice is a lubricant intended for marine toilets, but you can also use mineral oil. Oil lubricates the pump wall and helps to keep internal rubber and leather parts supple.

    The usual treatment is to let a little water into the bowl, pour in a couple of ounces of lube, and pump this through the toilet. This method is adequate, but less than ideal because it lubricates only the discharge side of the pump. To also lubricate the intake side, disconnect the intake hose from the closed seacock and pour the oil into this hose.

    Pumping the head will pull this oil through both chambers of the pump. While you are servicing the head, lightly coat the piston rod with Teflon grease.

    This will prolong the life of the piston-rod seal. Marine toilets need not stink, but they often do. The discharge hose is, by far, the most common culprit. To check yours, rub the hose with a damp, clean cloth, then sniff the cloth. If it has picked up an odor, the hose is permeable and you will never eliminate the odor until you replace this hose with proper sanitation hose. Leaking connections are another source of odor, and you can use your cloth the same way to locate a leak.

    Also check the seal around the piston rod.

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    On some heads, tightening the seal will stop a leak; on others a leaky piston-rod seal must be replaced. Another common source of head odor is grass and other marine life trapped inside the flush-water passage under the rim of the bowl. Prevent this by installing a strainer in the intake line. An anti-siphon valve in the discharge line can also release odors into the boat.

    A properly installed valve vents outside the cabin area.By using our site, you acknowledge that you have read and understand our Cookie PolicyPrivacy Policyand our Terms of Service. The dark mode beta is finally here. Change your preferences any time.

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    Question Close Updates: Phase 1. Visit chat. Linked 1. Related Hot Network Questions. Question feed.Keep your finger on the pulse of your factories, quickly identify test program issues, and boost manufacturing performance and product quality.

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    Improve efficiency Maintainable Test is an affordable solution that pays for itself by giving you the visibility to improve your test and manufacturing efficiency.Spring commissioning is the time to ready your boat for the season — and do some chores you might not have gotten around to when you winterized.

    Photo: Sea Ray. Last winter was likely a flurry of activity as you put your boat to bed, spending hours checking off every conceivable chore to make sure it was ready come spring.

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    Or maybe, like a lot of people, you did just enough to make sure the boat wouldn't be damaged by the cold but left a few things for spring. If so, you're in the right place. Our BoatUS Marine Insurance claims files are full of what can happen when boaters, anxious for the first outing of the year, forget to do some of the things they didn't have time for last winter. Here are the things you'll want to make sure you check before launching this spring.

    Check for deteriorated anodes.

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    They disintegrate over time and give a good indication of what would happen to vital underwater machinery if the anodes weren't there. If they're about half gone, replace them. Note: If the anode has vanished or has been reduced to powder, check the other metal underwater surfaces to ensure they didn't also suffer from galvanic corrosion.

    For outboards and sterndrives, if you buy the set, you'll know exactly how many need to be replaced; some of them can be hard to see. Anodes that disappear in less than a season may indicate a problem with the boat's electrical system. Look first for chafed DC wires or battery cables, which also can cause a fire. Keep in mind that corrosion is not usually covered by insurance. Watch Video: Replace Sterndrive Anodes. Inspect props. Look for dings, pitting, and distortion that can create excessive vibration and can loosen everything from screws and bulkheads to dental fillings and can damage the transmission.

    Make sure cotter pins are secure. Our claims files have several sheepish instances of on-water towing because props fell off. Bent props, incidentally, can usually be made like new by a prop shop. Check the cutless bearing on inboard-powered boats by gripping the shaft and trying to move it from side to side within the bearing. Looseness indicates the bearing probably needs to be replaced.

    Watch Video: How to Replace a Propeller. Inspect the hull for blisters and stress cracks.

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    Blisters are easier to see just after haulout, but any you see now should be dried, sanded, and filled. Large blisters may require professional attention. Stress cracks mean something is flexing and cracking the gelcoat. Those problems may need to be addressed by a marine surveyor or repairer. Check lower-unit lube. Hopefully you drained and filled the lower unit lube last winter, but if not, check the lube level and condition.

    Milk-chocolate-looking oil indicates a bad seal that allowed water in, and if it's not replaced, your lower unit can be destroyed. Replace the water pump impeller. After a couple of years, these are living on borrowed time, and when they fail, your engine will overheat, and your first spring outing might be a short one. Check belts for tension and wear. Loose belts squeal and won't last long; worn ones can leave you stranded.


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